Lipid-based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel

Hoang Truc Phuong Nguyen; Martin Soucé; Xavier Perse; Francis Vial; Thomas Perrier,; Florent Yvergnaux; Igor Chourpa; Emilie Munnier

Lipid-based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel

Hoang Truc Phuong Nguyen ^{1, 2} Martin Soucé ¹ Xavier Perse ¹ Francis Vial ³ Thomas Perrier, ⁴ Florent Yvergnaux ⁵ Igor Chourpa ¹ Emilie Munnier ^{1, *}

* Corresponding author

1 NMNS - Nanomédicaments et Nanosondes, EA 6295

2 DPM - Département de pharmacochimie moléculaire

3 Spincontrol France, Tours, France

4 Carlina Technologies, Angers, France

5 Bioeurope Groupe Solabia

Abstract : OBJECTIVE: The present study aims at increasing the concentration of a hydrophobic lightening agent, Omegalight® , in a hydrophilic cosmetic product by means of encapsulation in lipid-based submicron capsules. The core of these capsules is entirely made of the commercial lightening agent. METHODS: Lipid-based encapsulation systems (LNC) were prepared by the PIT method. Their physicochemical properties were followed over 6 months by dynamic light scattering and zeta potential measurements, and in parallel the potential degradation of the active ingredient was monitored by HPLC. The stability of the capsules in a cosmetic gel was studied by spectrofluorimetry and rheology measurements. Sensory analysis was used to determine the influence of the presence of capsules in the gel on the consumer's experience. RESULTS: LNC encapsulating Omegalight® were prepared on a laboratory scale and then on a semi-pilot scale. Their hydrodynamic diameters are around 230 nm. The concentration of Omegalight® in the capsules reaches about 84% w/w, which corresponds to 42% of active ingredient. LNC can be dispersed without degradation at concentrations of up to 20% w/w in a hydrogel without modification of the physicochemical or sensory properties of the gel. CONCLUSION: Lipid-based capsules (LNC), an encapsulation system useful for the epidermal delivery of hydrophobic compounds, were adapted to the encapsulation of a commercial lightening agent. The encapsulation permits the dispersion in a stable manner of a very high concentration of a hydrophobic active molecule in a hydrogel while maintaining the physicochemical and sensory properties of the gel. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Keywords : spectroscopy formulation/stability skin lightening Nanoencapsulation chemical analysis

Document type :

Journal articles

Domain :

Life Sciences [q-bio] / Pharmaceutical sciences / Galenic pharmacology

Chemical Sciences / Analytical chemistry

Complete list of metadatas

https://hal-univ-tours.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01515720
Contributor : Martin Soucé <>
Submitted on : Friday, April 28, 2017 - 9:40:51 AM
Last modification on : Wednesday, February 27, 2019 - 1:03:41 AM

Lipid-based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel

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Lipid-based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel

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