Lipid-based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel

Hoang Truc Phuong Nguyen 1, 2 Martin Soucé 1 Xavier Perse 1 Francis Vial 3 Thomas Perrier, 4 Florent Yvergnaux 5 Igor Chourpa 1 Emilie Munnier 1, *
* Corresponding author
1 NMNS - Nanomédicaments et Nanosondes, EA 6295
2 DPM - Département de pharmacochimie moléculaire
3 Spincontrol France, Tours, France
4 Carlina Technologies, Angers, France
5 Bioeurope Groupe Solabia
Abstract : OBJECTIVE: The present study aims at increasing the concentration of a hydrophobic lightening agent, Omegalight® , in a hydrophilic cosmetic product by means of encapsulation in lipid-based submicron capsules. The core of these capsules is entirely made of the commercial lightening agent. METHODS: Lipid-based encapsulation systems (LNC) were prepared by the PIT method. Their physicochemical properties were followed over 6 months by dynamic light scattering and zeta potential measurements, and in parallel the potential degradation of the active ingredient was monitored by HPLC. The stability of the capsules in a cosmetic gel was studied by spectrofluorimetry and rheology measurements. Sensory analysis was used to determine the influence of the presence of capsules in the gel on the consumer's experience. RESULTS: LNC encapsulating Omegalight® were prepared on a laboratory scale and then on a semi-pilot scale. Their hydrodynamic diameters are around 230 nm. The concentration of Omegalight® in the capsules reaches about 84% w/w, which corresponds to 42% of active ingredient. LNC can be dispersed without degradation at concentrations of up to 20% w/w in a hydrogel without modification of the physicochemical or sensory properties of the gel. CONCLUSION: Lipid-based capsules (LNC), an encapsulation system useful for the epidermal delivery of hydrophobic compounds, were adapted to the encapsulation of a commercial lightening agent. The encapsulation permits the dispersion in a stable manner of a very high concentration of a hydrophobic active molecule in a hydrogel while maintaining the physicochemical and sensory properties of the gel. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
Keywords : spectroscopy formulation/stability skin lightening Nanoencapsulation chemical analysis
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Journal articles
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https://hal-univ-tours.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01515720
Contributor : Martin Soucé <>
Submitted on : Friday, April 28, 2017 - 9:40:51 AM
Last modification on : Thursday, November 14, 2019 - 10:46:06 AM

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Hoang Truc Phuong Nguyen, Martin Soucé, Xavier Perse, Francis Vial, Thomas Perrier,, et al.. Lipid-based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Wiley, 2017, 39 (4), pp.450-456. ⟨10.1111/ics.12397⟩. ⟨hal-01515720⟩

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